Nepal To Tighten Everest Access: Only Experienced Climbers Will Qualify

Nepal is set to introduce a new law that will limit Mount Everest permits to only those climbers who have successfully summited at least one of the country’s 7,000-meter (22,965 ft) peaks. The move is part of a broader effort to reduce overcrowding and enhance safety on the world’s tallest mountain.

The draft law, now registered in the National Assembly—where the ruling coalition holds a majority—comes in response to growing international criticism over the lax permitting system. Critics argue that allowing inexperienced climbers to attempt the 8,849-meter (29,032 ft) Everest summit has led to dangerous congestion, particularly in the notorious “Death Zone,” where oxygen levels are fatally low.

Overcrowding has been linked to a spike in fatalities on Everest. In 2023 alone, 12 climbers died and five more went missing, despite only 478 permits being issued. The previous year saw eight deaths.

Under the proposed legislation, an Everest permit would be granted only after a climber proves they have summited a 7,000-meter mountain in Nepal. Additionally, the expedition leader (sardar) and mountain guide must be Nepali citizens.

However, international expedition leaders are pushing back, saying the new rules could be too restrictive. Some argue that experience on any 7,000-meter peak—not just those in Nepal—should count toward the permit requirement.

“That wouldn’t make any sense,” said Lukas Furtenbach of Austria-based Furtenbach Adventures, currently leading an Everest expedition. “I’d also include peaks near 7,000 meters that are widely used for training, like Ama Dablam, Aconcagua, Denali, and others.”

Furtenbach also emphasized the need to include foreign guides. “There simply aren’t enough qualified Nepali mountain guides. What matters is having IFMGA-certified guides, regardless of nationality.”

Garrett Madison of U.S.-based Madison Mountaineering echoed those concerns, suggesting a 6,500-meter requirement instead. “It’s extremely difficult to find a reasonable 7,000-meter peak in Nepal,” he said.

Nepal boasts over 400 peaks open to climbers, including 74 over 7,000 meters, according to the tourism department. Yet many of these remain unpopular among mountaineers.

“Only a handful of 7,000-meter mountains attract climbers,” said Tashi Lhakpa Sherpa of 14 Peaks Expedition, who has summited Everest eight times.

The proposed law, if passed, could reshape the future of Himalayan climbing—placing experience over ambition at the roof of the world.