Gentle Elegance: Milan Fashion Week Embraces Calm In A Chaotic World

As global unease grows — fueled by rising living costs and geopolitical tensions — the fashion world mirrors this turbulence with its own shifting dynamics: designer shakeups and a tough retail landscape. At the Spring/Summer 2026 Menswear shows in Milan, the mood was undeniably reflective. Collections were eclectic, but many designers struck a common chord: the call for compassion and calm.

A Softer Tone

Miuccia Prada captured this mood succinctly. “The most important thing for us was a change of tone: an invitation to embrace gentleness,” she said after unveiling Prada’s latest collection with co-creative director Raf Simons. The designs emphasized introspection over aggression, serenity over spectacle. Attendees like Harris Dickinson, Riz Ahmed, and Benedict Cumberbatch witnessed a lineup of crumpled suiting, micro shorts, woven hut-like hats, and relaxed striped tracksuits.

Brunello Cucinelli echoed the sentiment. “We need to find elegance, gentleness, and embrace the art of listening to one another,” he told CNN at his presentation, which featured early ‘90s-inspired relaxed tailoring in bold hues and refined cocktail jackets.

Comfort Meets Cool

Dolce & Gabbana leaned into Italian nostalgia with flowing loungewear, pleated trousers, and oversized stripes — often bordering on pajama territory — nodding to the 1980s. The star-studded front row, including new ambassador Theo James, added glamour to the heritage-driven showcase.

Giorgio Armani’s collection leaned into fluidity, breaking slightly from his structured past. Double-breasted jackets were shorter, and pants either tapered neatly or billowed towards the floor. Though Armani himself, now 90, was absent due to recovery at home, the collection spoke volumes in his signature tone of refined simplicity.

At Tod’s, creative director Matteo Tamburini described his vision as “relaxed elegance with a touch of sportswear,” using lightweight materials like linen, crepe cotton, and ultra-light wool to create pieces meant for ease and movement.

International Flair: Brits Take Milan

Milan saw an influx of British design energy this season. Paul Smith made his Milan debut with a vibrant, vintage-inspired collection. Drawing on Cairo street photography and European flea markets, the show featured joyful pinstripes, embroidered linens, and a front row seated on colorful market crates — a tribute to street culture.

Dunhill’s designer Simon Holloway tapped into the timeless elegance of British icons like the Duke of Windsor and Bryan Ferry. “The components were the same — incredible tailoring, outerwear, haberdashery — worn in two very British ways,” he said, comparing royal formality with rockstar flair.

Returning to Milan was Saul Nash, bringing his signature fusion of fashion and function. Known for his movement-friendly designs, Nash explored the theme of human connection, a continuation of his mission to infuse performancewear with purpose and emotion.

The New Vanguard

Milan’s fashion narrative is expanding beyond legacy brands. With powerhouses like Gucci and Fendi absent this season, rising designers had room to shine.

PDF, the streetwear label founded by Domenico Formichetti and loved by Lewis Hamilton and Central Cee, brought urban grit to the runway. Meanwhile, Simon Cracker — a Milanese label led by Filippo Biraghi and Simone Botte — championed upcycling and anti-elitist fashion. “It’s about abolishing classist thinking and clichés and having a voice,” Botte told CNN.

Setchu’s Satoshi Kuwata offered one of the season’s most inventive collections, drawing on his fishing trips in Zimbabwe. His modular garments, including denim-skirt hybrids and straw-trimmed jackets, showcased a playful practicality that blurs the lines between function and fashion.